Trattoria Antiche Carampane – away from Venice’s main artery
Softshell Crabs were the recommendation of the very friendly waiter in the Trattoria Antiche Carampane, crabs who are changing their shells. I had read that these crabs, called Moeche in Venetian dialect, existed in Venice. It is rather rare that we have never tasted a special food. This was a first. And a successful one!
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Cicchetti in Venice
To begin with, I honestly thought what the Venetian’s hype about those “sandwiches” would be. They name it Crostini, that is Canapées – more or less. Today I know: You have to get involved in it and enjoy Cicchetti like the tapas in Spain with a walk through several wine bars in Venice. Then you get behind it very quickly, what makes the special charm of these hearty little things.
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Shore leave Venice
The early bird catches the Venetian worm. Between 6 and 10 am, the lagoon city shows up the most beautiful – before the endless tourist-lindworm rolls over the Rialto Bridge and overflows the famous St. Mark’s Square. “Early in the morning and late in the evening, you can enjoy Venice’s morbid charm and unique atmosphere the best,” the captain recommends.
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Bari – seafood and pasta
Raw fish and seafood – everyone immediately thinks of Japan. Sushi, clear. Or of Peru. Ceviche, too. But what about Italy? In Puglia – and especially in the region around Bari – raw fish and raw seafood are indispensable to the restaurant menus. As indispensable as the orecchiette pasta in the streets of Bari.
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Pasta a la Mamma
Home-made pasta, there is nothing better. Soft wheat semolina is the magic word. I was in a small shop for Italian food. At checkout the older grumbled something grouchy, (which must be resulting from living in Northern Germany…) owner: “Pasta? You don’t figure it out anyway.” On the question of whether he was this opinion because I’m not Italian, he replied unmoved: “My wife tried for 40 years, so you will not get out even there.” Allora! Per favore!
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